While in Chiang Mai, Heather suggested we get massages. Just within a short walk from our guesthouse, there were several massage parlors with their prices posted on large signs out front. You couldn’t beat the price – 180Baht for a one hour Thai-style massage, or the equivalent of two large bottles of Chang beer. That translates to under $6USD! For an hour. It would be unseemly not to partake of this relaxing Thai tradition. I thought of a petite Thai women gently massaging my back and shoulders, lulling me into a blissful state of consciousness. Yes, a massage would be a great idea. We walked the street and checked prices – pretty much all the same. Stopping at one parlor, we asked the proprietor if he could accommodate two of us at the same time. “Yes, sure, no problem. Just wait five minutes. Inside, sit, air conditioning very nice.” So we walked inside and had a seat, enjoying the cool temperature of the waiting room. Eventually, a young, stocky man ushered us into the next room, where he gently washed and dried our feet in preparation for our massage. Where are those petite women I wondered. He directed us upstairs where we passed a couple curtained alcoves where others were receiving their massages by young women. We were led to our own alcove and told to change into loose-fitting pants and shirts. Then the same guy from downstairs entered and asked me to roll onto my front. Wait! No, this is not what I imagined! A young woman also entered and instructed Heather to do the same. Couldn’t we swap? Is there some mistake? But before I could put my thoughts to words his hands were on me. Okay, he did have soft hands and was quite gentle while washing my feet. Perhaps this wouldn’t be so bad. There was some gentle rubbing to loosen up the back but then the work began in earnest. He was up on the table, kneeling over me, pushing his hands, and then elbows, into my back. I imagined it was as if I was a pile of pie dough and he was attempting to roll out my body in order to fit the dimensions of the table. Then it was down to the legs. Again, the elbows were used to separate muscle from bone. He twisted my calf muscles as if they were the strings of an old mop, wringing every last drop of water from them. Finally, he performed the old figure-four leg lock, twisting my legs into a pretzel, apparently a move learned by watching Saturday night wrestling on TV. “Ugh, I don’t know how much more of this relaxation I can take” I thought to myself. I chanced a peek over to Heather who seemed to have achieved another level of consciousness. Her face was peaceful, eyes closed, a slight smile and her breathing slow and soft. Meanwhile I was grunting, having my breath forced out of my body while Killer Kowalski continued his assault. Eventually, he motioned for me to turn over, placed a pillow on his lap and put my head on it. He began gently massaging my scalp and forehead, then my neck. Now, this is what I was hoping for! Just as I began to really relax and melt into the pillow he pushed me up and grabbed both arms, pulling them back, seemingly attempting to remove them from my torso. Unsuccessful at first, he placed the soles of each foot onto my lower back to gain more leverage and continued his attempt at dismemberment. Eventually giving up, he ended the session with a final chopping motion along my back. As Heather sat up she opened her eyes and exclaimed “Wasn’t that amazing? I can’t wait to do this again!” I could only think that my time, and money, would be better spent drinking those two big beers instead.

How I expected to feel after a Thai massage.

but I felt more like this afterwards.

If Heather suggests another massage . . .

After starting our Asian winter trip by spending ten days in beautiful Hoi An, Vietnam, it’s time to start thinking about moving on. When we arrived we had booked a guesthouse for five nights, but within a couple days decided it made sense to stay a bit longer. We’re so happy we got to really explore this town in depth and I wanted to share some of the things we really love about it:

-In Hoi An, Heather found us the perfect guesthouse: Vinci Villa is located a short walk from the ancient town center in a residential (local) neighborhood, surrounded by good and cheap restaurants, and run by the friendliest family imaginable (and they have two puppies!). Our $30USD/night room is huge and modern, overlooks the beautiful pool, includes a delicious cooked-to-order breakfast and offers free bikes to use around town.

-In the late afternoons, after spending the day sightseeing in town or riding out to the beach at An Bang, we can sit on our second-story terrace and listen to the sounds of local life in the neighborhood: kids playing in the maze of alleys surrounding us; the chatter of women as they pass on the street below; the sizzle of a wok and the smell of fish sauce as a meal is prepared next door; and always, always, always, the rumbling and honking of the motorbikes speeding by on the bigger streets a block away.

-On Sunday afternoon and into the evening we can hear the melodic (yes, sarcasm) strains of the neighborhood kareoke bar.

-At An Bang beach, after a couple visits, we’ve gotten to know the ladies who walk up and down the beach hawking souvenirs. While we haven’t bought any of the chopstick sets, fridge magnets or wind chimes they deal out of the big bamboo baskets they carry around, we love when they come over to our lounge chairs, set down their baskets and chat about the weather, their families and our travels. Always smiling, they love to hear how much we enjoy their town and beach.

-Sitting in a cafe along one of Hoi An’s busy streets and just watching life go by. Seeing the rush of motorbikes zig-zagging down the street, avoiding tourists and dogs and old ladies, some bikes holding entire families of four, or a driver and passenger who’s holding a folded-over mattress or 15′ lengths of PVC pipe; watching young Asian tourists, faces buried in their phones, try not to kill themselves on the uneven and crowded sidewalks; the elderly Vietnamese shuffle along in outfits that look a lot like pajamas.

-The food. Dumplings, noodles, soups, sandwiches. I miss them already.

-The prices. Meals and drinks for two under $10USD! I miss them already.

Our host, Plum, and her kids at our favorite restaurant, Thuan Y.

Hoi An’s central market, where the ingredients for all the delicious meals come from.

One of the beach hawkers takes a break to chat.

The famous banh mi sandwich – a Vietnamese classic at Phi Banh Mi

One Vietnamese food export I’ve enjoyed is the traditional sandwich called the banh mi. Built in a crusty mini baguette (one positive aspect of the French occupation of the country in the 1950’s) the sandwich contains a couple varieties of pork product, a vinegary mix of julienned carrot and green papaya, slices of cucumber, fresh cilantro leaves and a smear of chili paste. In order to cater to foreign tastes, many banh mi stalls offer shredded chicken in place of the pork and will add cheese and/or avocado as well. As luck would have it, a well-reviewed and well-rated banh mi shop happened to be located just around the corner from our guesthouse. After a leisurely morning doing some trip research online, we walked to the shop for lunch. We figured a place that had been discovered by travelers and had been recommended online would probably be a bit more pricey than other hole-in-the-wall food shops. I couldn’t have been more surprised after sitting down at one of the three tables and glancing at the menu to discover that the traditional banh mi was offered at only 15,000 dong, or the equivalent of ~.67 USD! Lunch for under a dollar! But wait. Is it possible that they also sell a can of the local beer, Larue, for the same price? Sandwich and a brew for less than two bucks. I don’t usually drink beer before noon, but it would be unseemly not to at these prices. Within seconds after ordering our sandwiches appeared, along with a cold can of beer. The baguette was crusty on the outside, soft on the inside. The pork was tender, the carrot-papaya “slaw” tart, the cucumber added crunch, the cilantro was fresh and zippy and the chile added the perfect amount of heat. Midway through lunch the place started to fill up and by the time we left a line had formed on the sidewalk. If not for those eagerly waiting for their turn to enjoy the perfect lunch, I easily could have had a second – sandwich and beer. But we also wanted to get back into town and explore some more, then find more of those Vietnamese classic meals.

Green papaya salad with shrimp and fresh passion fruit juice at Ho Lo Quan.

Enjoying Hoi An’s special dish of White Rose – rice flour dumplings filled with pork and topped with fried shallots – and watching the parade of tourists along the riverfront.

Twenty and a quarter hours flying time. Ten and a half hours sitting around in three different airports. Four hours in two different shuttles on each end of the trip. Leaving Steamboat Springs, and it’s 19 degree weather, to arrive in Hoi An, Vietnam nearly two days later – so worth it!

We decided to start our journey in Hoi An because it was the highlight of our Vietnam leg of an Asian trip we took ten years ago. Also, because Heather was sick most of the three days we spent here then, and she wanted to enjoy the sights and flavors in a better frame of mind. This is a small city known for it’s culinary delights – cao lau, a dish of noodles, pork and greens found only here; com ga, featuring rice and shredded chicken with mint, onion and chilies; and white rose, a translucent dumpling filled with shrimp, the dough made from the water of one specific well in town, the recipe a closely-guarded secret from one family. The Unesco World Heritage listed town sits along the Thu Bon River, and is just four kilometers from An Bang beach on the South China Sea. Those of you who know us know that the combination of good food and a good beach make for the perfect destination.

Ten years ago Hoi An was a sleepy little destination. But travelers and tourists have found this spot and the hordes of Korean and Chinese tour groups can inundate the ancient town’s charming pedestian-only streets and bridges. But by evening, the majority of the tour groups return to larger Danang, thirty kilometers to the north. Still, sitting in one of the riverside cafes, sipping a Tiger beer while watching the masses of selfie-taking tourists can provide hours of entertainment.

Our first day was fairly uneventful. A couple hours of shut-eye after arrival gave us the energy to walk into the ancient town, explore the narrow streets, gaze at shops selling colorful lanterns and artwork and find that perfect riverside cafe for dinner and drinks. Returning to our guesthouse, our heads hit the pillow at 8pm.

After a fantastic breakfast of eggs, toast and fresh fruits, we borrowed bicycles from the guesthouse and rode out to An Bang beach for the day. While the highway to the beach had it’s fair share of traffic (mainly motorbikes, some trucks and a handful of tourists  also biking to the beach) the views out across the rice fields were nice. White egrets patrolled the flooded paddies in search of a meal and we even passed a farmer napping on the back of his water buffalo. After parking our bikes, we dropped onto the beach and picked one of the restaurants that had lounge chairs and umbrellas set up in front. The general rule: buy drinks or food and the loungers are free. A deal, considering our meal of chicken and rice, a couple beers and a fresh fruit juice cost less then 8USD. After spending the afternoon watching folks get wiped out by the rough shore break, we decided it was time to head back to town and enjoy a little pool time before walking back into the

The streets are quiet in the mornings

Lanterns for sale. They also adorn the outside of most buildings.

town center for happy hour. We settled into the same cafe as the evening before to enjoy the show unfold before us. After a couple drinks we returned to our guesthouse, determined to push the envelope and stay awake a little later but found our eyelids closing at 8 again. Apparently it’ll take more than two days to get over the twelve hour time change.