The mountainsides are even steeper than I imagined. The roads are even more twisted than I had read about (and the Italians are even worse drivers than I feared). The crowds were more overwhelming than I expected (even in late-October!). The prices for mediocre food are – pun intended – hard to swallow.

We don’t like the Amalfi coast. There, I’ve said it. Per favore, don’t hate us.

Positano from the ferry – yes, it’s pretty

The beach at Atrani, just outside Amalfi – also pretty

But . . . we still had one fantastic day that I’d like to tell you about.

We chose to stay in the small village of Bomerano, in the Agerola valley, high above the busy coast. On a beautiful Monday morning, the sun was already warming the terrace outside Villa Elisa, the family farmhouse turned guesthouse run by two sisters, Cristina and Antonella. We woke to the gobbling of turkeys and mooing of the cows from the neighbors barnyard before joining the family cat, who was already lazing in the brilliant sunshine, out on the terrace where we were served breakfast. Sharp mountain peaks lined the horizon to the north. The guesthouse is surrounded by grape vines, flowers and trees bearing olives and persimmons. The Agerola has a rural, alpine feel, far removed from the hustle and bustle of Amalfi and Positano, a thirty minute drive away and a drop of two-thousand feet in elevation. Our plan for the day was simple – stay away from the crowds down on the coast by walking the Sentiero Degli Dei, the Path of the Gods, which starts right in the center of tiny Bomerano and follows the mountainsides past terraces of grape vines, goat herders huts, cliff-hugging monasteries and the ruins of ancient chapels, eventually ending in the village of Nocelle, just above Positano. We strolled into the Piazza Paolo Capasso to find Salumeria Manna, where we purchased fresh-made sandwiches from the gracious proprietor as well as a few pieces of fruit for a picnic lunch to have somewhere along the trail. At 10:30 we were on the path, following a cobblestone lane out of town, crossing a wooden footbridge and climbing a set of stairs to meet the trail which climbed up to give us our first views of the sea, before descending to a dirt path we would follow for the next hour and a half. It was slow going – not because the trail was particularly arduous, but because we couldn’t help but stop every couple minutes to take in the views and snap photos of the breathtaking scenery. Morning mist was still wafting up from the sea below cloaking the mountainsides. At times we could hear the tinkling of the bells worn around the necks of the goats grazing nearby. As we neared the end of the trail Positano came into view as we wound around another cliff face. At this point most walkers continue on, descending to Positano, but determined as we were to avoid the crowds there, we elected to turn around and retrace our steps back to Bomerano. On the way back we found a shady spot just off the trail with a view down to Praiano, another of the coastal towns below. By one o’clock we were back on the piazza, sweaty and gratified to have found a piece of paradise high above the Amalfi coast. We settled in at a cafe table overlooking the piazza for a celebratory beer and to watch a few other hikers as they came off the trail. An amazing morning indeed. But the perfect day wasn’t over.

On the Sentiero Degli Dei

Morning mists high over the Amalfi coast

Enjoying the reward after returning to Bomerano

San Lazzaro is another of the small villages in the Agerola, just a couple miles from Bomerano. On the outskirts of the village sits La Vigna Degli Dei, a bed and breakfast/restaurant/farm/winery run by Pasquale and Rosanna. We had heard that they offered a pretty special experience and were keen to try them out for dinner. We drove over around five o’clock and found Pasquale working outside the restaurant. He confirmed they were open for dinner and we should come back around seven o’clock. In the meantime we could explore San Lazzaro and take in the views down to Amalfi. At seven we returned to find one table in the small restaurant – with eighteen places set. Pasquale explained that he and Rosanna were hosting a tour group that evening and we would be joining sixteen strangers at their table. When we raised an objection to intruding on their party, Pasquale insisted that we stay (“English-speaking group. You will enjoy yourselves – I promise!”) The group arrived shortly thereafter and he was right – they welcomed us warmly to their table. While Rosanna bustled around in the kitchen preparing the four courses we would be served (no menus – you eat what they’re cooking that night), Pasquale ushered us downstairs into the stone cellar where the winemaking operation was housed to explain his methods (he produces about 2,500 bottles a year – all for consumption in the restaurant), his family history (he’s the third generation winemaker) and the hard work that goes into managing a farm (everything on the plates we would be served later comes from the property). After tasting the wines (one white and one red – it’s a simple operation) we returned to the table for dinner. The antipasti plate, our first course, contained grilled eggplant slices, pickled cauliflower, julienned raw zucchini dressed with olive oil, slices of salumi (which we had seen curing in the wine cellar), melon, fried pizza dough, cherry tomatoes and two cheeses – a fresh mozzarella and a spiced goat cheese. When those plates were cleared, they were replaced by the pasta course – house-made fusilli tossed with a fresh tomato and eggplant sauce, topped with grated parmigiano. Our main course was a ground pork and beef rollatine baked in a bread ring with a side of bibb lettuce salad. To finish we were presented with individual ramekins of tiramisu as well as Pasquale’s homemade limoncello. It was truly a memorable evening, made more special by enjoying it with new friends and being embraced by the warmth and hospitality of Rosanna and Pasquale. Before we left we were able to wrangle a couple bottles of the house wine to take back to Bomerano to be enjoyed on the terrace at Villa Elisa over the next couple days.

Pasquale pours the fruit of his labors in the wine cellar

Curing salumi and canned tomatoes (in recycled bottles) ready for the sauce

Farm to table – the antipasti plate

My favorite view from the Amalfi coast – the mountains around Bomerano from the terrace at Villa Elisa

After four days on the coast we would be heading right across the country to the region of Puglia, along the Adriatic Sea for a week of walled medieval towns, vineyards and far too much Puglian cuisine – in the next Rhumline post.