The sky was blue, the sun was warm and we were barefoot on a beach. While the water was too cold to even contemplate swimming, it was just great to be walking in the sunshine. Perhaps, with the thought of returning home to Colorado in just four days, and the knowledge that we’d have to wear just about all our clothes to keep warm in the sub-freezing temperatures we’d soon be seeing, for at least one day it was still summer, and we were still in southern Italy. After our walk on the sands of Marina Di Ragusa, on the southern coast of Sicily, we found a restaurant just at the back of the beach and settled in for a long, leisurely lunch. Heather had pasta with the small local clams while I opted for a piece of seared umbrina with a puree of pumpkin and blistered cherry tomatoes. It was quiet and the staff took the time to linger at our table, chatting about the weather, the expected influx of northern Europeans over the upcoming winter season and the impending election back home in America. After lunch we took a couple glasses of rose out to the loungers set in front of the restaurant to enjoy the last of the afternoon sun. We were trying to store up what was left of the warmth in order to take it home, hopefully to last until the next time we found ourselves on another sunny beach.

The final week of our six-week fall trip started with a visit to the town of Matera, in the region of Basilicata, in the hills of central southern Italy. Believed to have been occupied by folks going all the way back to the Paleolithic Era – about six thousand years ago – Matera is thought to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. The original cave dwellings, and the subsequent limestone homes and churches are recognized by UNESCO for their historic and cultural significance. Our visit, on November 1, was a holiday, and the town was swarming with visitors, mostly Italians on a long weekend trip. It was still a pleasure to wander the lanes of the Sassi, as the old town is known, taking in the views of the historic buildings and the surrounding hills. We managed to find a terrace bar to enjoy a drink and an antipasti plate while looking down over the town center. Lit up at night the Sassi had a beautiful warm glow to it.

Venturing on to Sicily, we had an overnight stop in Tropea, in the region of Calabria. This old walled town, perched on a clifftop, overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea and offers a number of sandy beaches below. Our visit was brief, but we had time to stroll the waterfront before climbing stairs up into the old town, wander it’s time-worn cobbled streets, watch the sunset and have dinner before departing in the morning

From Calabria we caught the ferry that took us and our car over to Sicily, arriving in the port city of Messina. We headed south and then inland to the slopes of Mt. Etna, stopping at Randazzo, which would be our base for the next three days. With views of the smoking cone of Etna – Europe’s highest and most active volcano – and surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, the home of our hosts, Tina and Nicola, was the perfect place to stay. The garden area outside our comfortable apartment had a dining area, loungers, a barbeque, roses, herb and chile plants, fruit trees and was the playground for the couples two dogs. Tina supplied us with fresh eggs from their hens, homemade cherry jam and muffins, while Nicola proudly pointed out the bottle of his homemade grappa he had provided us. We spent our time touring the countryside and exploring the slopes of Etna, waking one morning to marvel at the fresh snow that had fallen overnight on its upper slopes.

Our final stop before we turned northward for our return to Naples, and our flight home, was the southeastern town of Ragusa. Noted for its Baroque architecture showcased on its palaces and churches, Ragusa Ibla, the old town, occupies a hilltop just outside the newer part of town. Our B&B offered a wonderful view of Ibla from its terrace, as well as an impressive breakfast spread set up each morning by our host, Salvo, who would bring fresh pastries and savory treats from the local patisserie to supplement the yogurt, juices, cured meats, cheeses and fruits he offered. We walked up and down the quiet lanes of the old town, strolled through the villa comunale, or town park, and enjoyed a gelato while sitting on the Piazza Duomo, gazing at the massive cathedral on the main square. From town it was just a twenty minute drive down to the sea where we spent the next day on the beach at Marina Di Ragusa.

Our final night would be spent in Naples, where we were happy to drop off the car at the airport before taking a thrilling taxi ride through the chaotic traffic-choked streets into the city center before being dropped off at our hotel. Fortunately, we were smack dab in the middle of the Decumani neighborhood, which featured a grid of pedestrian lanes (Italians consider themselves pedestrians even when they’re on their motorbikes) lined with restaurants, pizzerias, gelato stands, street food stalls and souvenir shops. It made for a nice way to spend our final evening. The next morning, after breakfast at our hotel, we were off to the airport for the flight home – via Istanbul, Chicago and a night in Denver, finally arriving back in Steamboat Springs some thirty-five hours later.